Thursday, June 12, 2003

Deprivation


Evan Howe and I climbed Deprivation on the N. Buttress of Mt. Hunter to the Bibler Exit on the Moonflower. At that point a storm moved in and without bivy gear, we decended 20 rappels through the night. Below is the route from afar. Our route went up the buttress just above the person in the photo, just a hair to the right. The Bibler Exit exits the highest rock band to the triangle-shaped 60 degree ice slope above.














This is me leading one of two crux pitches, vertical unprotectable
snow. Evan lead the pitch after this, which was the other crux pitch. Both were 200' long. His started with ice then went to pure rock climbing with some shoddy protection.
















Here's the buttress after we got back to the ground, about 15 hours after leaving. Note all the new snow! That little dot at the bottom, far right is Evan putting his skis on. It's about 3am.